Ketchikan in a Day

Ketchikan in a Day

You have arrived! You are in Ketchikan, usually the very first stop of your Alaskan cruise. Adventure awaits at the foot of the gang plank. What shall you do with just one day?

Ketchikan is known by many titles, “rain capital of the world,” because it averages over 12 feet of rain per year; “Salmon Capital of the World” because of its legendary salmon packing industry; “Totem capital of the World” with more totem poles than any other city, and even “First City of Alaska,” so named because it was and frequently still is the first port of call on your Alaska cruise. Call it whatever you like, but I feel certain you will be charmed by this highly walkable, compact and historical city. Here are a few suggestions to get you started:

Most cruise ships dock in the very center of the town, or about a 10 minute walk from there. You can walk to almost everywhere I will mention, but you can maximize your time by taking the free shuttle bus.

Take the Shuttle Bus

One of Ketchikan’s virtues is the proximity of the cruise docks to the city; almost every ship will be parked within an easy walk of the downtown area. Feeling lazy or experiencing one of Ketchikan’s frequent downpours? Take the free shuttle bus, it follows a loop past the cruise ship docks, through the downtown area, then uphill to the Totem Heritage park. Stop at the Totem Heritage Center and reboard the bus — it will then take you past notorious Creek Street, through town and then onto “the shopping center,” complete with a McDonalds and Safeway (a good stop for lunch, free wi-fi and any essentials you may have forgotten). Or stay on the bus to return to your ship. I recommend doing the entire loop staying on for a full lap to decide where you would like to stop and stay a while (busses arrive approximately every 20 minutes). The shuttle will give you an excellent overview of the city.

Creek Street

Creek Street is the place to head for a variety of experiences such as local art galleries, handicraft studios, mini museums (such as Dolly’s House) and the elevated walkway over the creek itself, which in summer can be filled chock-a-block with migrating salmon pushing and shoving their way to their natal spawning grounds.

Historically, Creek Street was once the home of Ketchikan’s “good time girls”, who were legally employed in Ketchikan until 1953 in several houses along the elevated board walk. In 1903 the town attempted to close the brothels in Ketchikan and the madams simply moved their operations outside the then city limits to “Indian Town.”

One of the most infamous of these establishments was Dolly’s House, painted a pale green with red trim, is now a museum and on the list of National Historic Places, where, as the sign states “both men and salmon came upstream to spawn.” The 19th century house is filled with antiques and memorabilia, my favorite is the gramophone which doubled as a way to hide the booze, below the house during prohibition. Admission, at time of writing, is $10, and you can book your tickets online.

Are You Looking for Totem Poles?

Cape Fox Lodge

Unless you walked to Creek Street with your eyes closed, not recommended in the traffic of tour buses, you will have passed several on your walk to Creek Street, in parks, outside of shops and even on front lawns (it was an anniversary gift). But, located between the Creek Street parking lot and the Ketchikan Museum is the Cape Fox Lodge Tram. Take the $2 round trip ride to the top and in front of the lodge you will discover a small stand of totem poles just waiting to be photographed. The Lodge is also an excellent place to grab a cup of coffee and avail yourself of some free wi-fi.

Totem Heritage Center

Hop off the bus at the Totem Heritage Center. The Totem Heritage Center serves as a cultural center for the artistic traditions of the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian people. You will find displays of totem carving, basketry weaving and regalia making. The center is open Tuesday–Saturday from 10am–5pm, admission is $6, $5 for elders. This small cultural center is an excellent introduction to the meanings and legends of the totem pole. Just outside the Heritage Center you can hop back on the bus or walk downhill, take the turn that indicates the “Married Man’s Trail,” to head to Creek Street.

Saxman Village

Are you anxious to see totem poles and learn about the native Tlingit (pronounced: Klink it) culture? You can take a local bus to the southern end of Ketchikan to Saxman village and walk amongst a small grouping of totems. The admission, at time of writing, was five dollars. Most shore excursions to Saxman Village (named for a beloved school teacher) will include a presentation on the Tlingit culture, dances by native performers and visit inside a clan house.

Totem Bight State Park

Or head north to Totem Bight State Park, about an hour ride on the local bus. This site of “rescued” totem poles was a project of the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s that brought totems from abandoned villages to this location and restored them. A beautiful location on the water, you can wander along trails with explanations and even walk inside a clan house. Park rangers are sometimes on site to give information. If the weather is warm you will need insect repellent — the mosquitoes appear in very large squadrons.

Just outside the Heritage Center you can hop back on the bus or walk downhill, take the turn that indicates “The Married Man’s Trail,” to head to Creek Street.

Rain Gauge Ketchikan

Ketchikan is known by many titles, “rain capital of the world,” because it averages over 12 feet of rain per year; “Salmon Capital of the World” because of its legendary salmon packing industry; “Totem capital of the World” with more totem poles than any other city, and even “First City of Alaska,” so named because it was and frequently still is the first port of call on your Alaska cruise. Call it whatever you like, but I feel certain you will be charmed by this highly walkable, compact and historical city.

Rain or shine you will be enchanted by Ketchikan.

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